Help for a friend ...

I have a competitor that owns a 92' Chevy S-10 Extended Cab that wants to GET LOUD.

I told him the Usaci guys use more extended cab trucks than anyone and that someone here might be able to give him assistance.

The product that he's running is (2) Rockford P2 DVC and (2) Rockford 300.1's.

He's not looking at competing in any certain class for any certain organization. He just wants his current system LOUDER.

He currently has a sealed box ... yeah yeah ... I know I know ... I've told him. With 4 of those subs and 4 of those amps he's doing a 141 on the dash. I know he can get LOUDer.

If anyone has any recommendations for a sub encloser for this vehicle using this equipment please contact me and I'll relay this information. I will do my best to get him over here to discuss this with you guys personally.

Thanks in advance for your help.

so does he have 4 subs or 2. same wit amps.

sub foward on floor vent up all the way accross? that seems to be how the rest of them have it

has 4 subs now, changing to 2 subs, 2 amps. I think 2 were a friends.

so, 2 subs, 2 amps

I was thinking the same thing, subs forward and vent on top all the way across, but not sure on cubic feet and vent specs

two subs up..... THEN he can try port up like shedluv's or he can try aero ports to the driver side..worked for us in our dakota

I'm the 1 steve's trying to help I have 2 subs and 2 amps my problem is I'm not sure how to build the port and tune it the size of the port varies I know but any help is appreciated I would like to build a rectangular port I'm building on a budget would like to hit mid to upper 140s if its possible Rockford recommends 1.79 cubic feet of air space per sub will that be enough or do I need more???

See if you can get emperor to post he has built several boxes for this truck. The last one I built was subs foward vent up and it did a 46. But, like I said if you can get emperor to post he has done this set up numerous times.

if oyu are building for spl all manfact. specs seem to go out the window. With 2-12s I say sub up(pass side), port up(driver side)

can you help me out with some specs? box size port size ect. like steve said I don't plan on competing only in local comps. to play I have 5 kids can't afford to get too serious

so you really lookin for somethin tuned to 34hz for everyday then aswell. Or will this box be to put in for local comps

thanks for helping him out guys. He has a local show to go to on the 9th and he needs to getLOUD by then.

I plan on entering a few local shows probably Joplin, Springfield, Tulsa area I live in Galena KS there's not many options for competition close to home I'm just getting back into stereos I have 6 kids so not much time or $$$ to get real serious with the LOUDNESS that I want to find.. I do all my own work but this will be my 1st ported enclosure I've always had sealed enclosures they are easy and straight foward to build this system is probably the best I've ever had BUT it's also more powerful + alot better equipment than I ever had
I [b]really need to hit 145+ but that may be out of reach with my equipment but I'll still try

subs foward on pass side box all the way accross port up. seen it done started tuning at a 150.2 very very good setup i was really impressed. he had 1 extra batt (2400) so call earthquake d3 (5000W pk) and believe it or not but 4 gauge wiring. you can also make the box deep enough so you can try moving the subs from foward to up on the pass side.

I'd try a 3 cubic foot box net with subs up on passenger side, port up on driver side...as phinney said. Use a biggish port for comps and smaller for daily.

3 cubic feet box net I can do I know there are alot of secrets you all don't want broadcast over the web so if anyone can help me with port deminsions you can call me @ 918-695-1252 any time before 10pm all help is appreciated & I want to say THANK YOU to Steve for getting me hooked up

Can somone help me?????? Need to know approx. port dimensions and 1 Question in the 3 cubic ft box is the port figured in to the 3 cubic ft or is it more space??? I've always run sealed enclosures no familiar with ported boxes I need approx. 3 cuft subs foward pass. side port up drivers side I hope to build this box by the 9th HELP

just a guess but try this

38 wide
16 tall
13 deep

make port 3"wide and 9.25"long on drivers side facing up

place subs up

you can mess with your own ideas here - http://www.reaudio.com/speaker_box/LPort_Box_Calc.html

good luck!

Thats a nice program for something online to use quick.

what steve said, that should work rather well...I will see you sept 9 to see how it turned out, but I dont think I will be competiting.

Thanks Everyone for the help I will get started tomorrow hope I can get get it finished by sunday it probably wont be pretty hopefully it will be LOUD

In a new body style (94+) do subs up port up. About 6 cubes and 150 sq in port. Should play 63-64Hz. If it doesn't, then it's not loud.

I don't know a lot about an older square S10, but I would assume the same would work. Also I have seen good numbers out of woofers forward at driver's side (top to bottom if they will fit) and port up on passenger side. That was in a Mazda ext cab, but similar setup.

All of the sub forward/port up along the back window works great outlaw, but not so much on the dash. Most of those designs lose about 6-8 dB going to the dash, and my setup is only a 3 dB difference. From my experience as well, you need a lot of cone area to make that work (ie 3 15s, 4 12s, 6 10s, etc.). I had a setup for 6 10s, 3 wide, 2 tall with port up near the rear window just like the other setups. Would do 155's outlaw and only 149 on the dash. In my setup with 2 10s all up, it will do 152s on the dash and still 155s outlaw (same power).

SPL unfortuneately is a test and tune type of sport. I'd build a box with holes on the front and on the top with port up on the passenger side and try testing between the two.

I think Jimbo knows a few pointers about this.