Port Questuions????????????

Areoports.. What advantages do these have over slot ports? What size is good for a decent number but sounds good daily? Thanks in advance guys!

32 to 40 hz ... may give your cabin freq. 34 to 50 hz ...
use simple 4" pvc round ports ... less resonance freq.ss

If it is a flaired port, you have to add 1/3 of the flares lip into the equation.
For example, if you had a 6" aero port, and the od of the flare is 12", you need to add 1/3 of the lip, so 6"+1" (3.5^2*3.14)

If its just straight pvc, then its just ((.5id)^2*3.14)

Then to account for tuning frequency is pretty simple, You just have to take the net vol of the box [Vb] minus the (vent area [Av] times effective length of the port plus the ports end correction [Lv]) to end up with an accurate tuning freq.

so in a nutshell......

Av = vent area
Lv = effective length of vent (effective length = physical length + end correction <---1/2 of the ports width)
Vb= net volume in cubic inches
Fb = tuning frequency

Fb = .159*((Av(1.84*10^8 )/(Vb(Lv+.823*Av^.5))^.5

the most effecient port will have the smallest perameter, and largest port area possible. This can not be achieved with a square, or rectangle port

Moral: Port area depedns on box volume, and a circle port is more effecient than a rectangle port, and aeros are tricky. Lol

but is it really worth that extra math?

footlongsam wrote:

If it is a flaired port, you have to add 1/3 of the flares lip into the equation.
For example, if you had a 6" aero port, and the od of the flare is 12", you need to add 1/3 of the lip, so 6"+1" (3.5^2*3.14)

If its just straight pvc, then its just ((.5id)^2*3.14)

Then to account for tuning frequency is pretty simple, You just have to take the net vol of the box [Vb] minus the (vent area [Av] times effective length of the port plus the ports end correction [Lv]) to end up with an accurate tuning freq.

so in a nutshell......

Av = vent area
Lv = effective length of vent (effective length = physical length + end correction <---1/2 of the ports width)
Vb= net volume in cubic inches
Fb = tuning frequency

Fb = .159*((Av(1.84*10^8 )/(Vb(Lv+.823*Av^.5))^.5

the most effecient port will have the smallest perameter, and largest port area possible. This can not be achieved with a square, or rectangle port

Moral: Port area depedns on box volume, and a circle port is more effecient than a rectangle port, and aeros are tricky. Lol

So how much for you to build or re-do my box sampson????

FUZ-T.C.C.-HK wrote:

footlongsam wrote:

If it is a flaired port, you have to add 1/3 of the flares lip into the equation.
For example, if you had a 6" aero port, and the od of the flare is 12", you need to add 1/3 of the lip, so 6"+1" (3.5^2*3.14)

If its just straight pvc, then its just ((.5id)^2*3.14)

Then to account for tuning frequency is pretty simple, You just have to take the net vol of the box [Vb] minus the (vent area [Av] times effective length of the port plus the ports end correction [Lv]) to end up with an accurate tuning freq.

so in a nutshell......

Av = vent area
Lv = effective length of vent (effective length = physical length + end correction <---1/2 of the ports width)
Vb= net volume in cubic inches
Fb = tuning frequency

Fb = .159*((Av(1.84*10^8 )/(Vb(Lv+.823*Av^.5))^.5

the most effecient port will have the smallest perameter, and largest port area possible. This can not be achieved with a square, or rectangle port

Moral: Port area depedns on box volume, and a circle port is more effecient than a rectangle port, and aeros are tricky. Lol

So how much for you to build or re-do my box sampson????

I'd start from scratch. I charge double materials, (ex. $75 in materials= $150 total price. This includes materials like carpet and spray paint)

What are your plans at the moment?







I'm tied up for the next 2 weeks, I have a box for a blowthrough in an Elcamino to do and one for a hatch integra.. And I have to work around my work and school schedule

what so funny is the pic of the box tha tis 2 pics up i have been thinking of doing a design like that for like 2 years now. still may try it myself just have to get the tuning an port right

footlongsam wrote:

FUZ-T.C.C.-HK wrote:

footlongsam wrote:

If it is a flaired port, you have to add 1/3 of the flares lip into the equation.
For example, if you had a 6" aero port, and the od of the flare is 12", you need to add 1/3 of the lip, so 6"+1" (3.5^2*3.14)

If its just straight pvc, then its just ((.5id)^2*3.14)

Then to account for tuning frequency is pretty simple, You just have to take the net vol of the box [Vb] minus the (vent area [Av] times effective length of the port plus the ports end correction [Lv]) to end up with an accurate tuning freq.

so in a nutshell......

Av = vent area
Lv = effective length of vent (effective length = physical length + end correction <---1/2 of the ports width)
Vb= net volume in cubic inches
Fb = tuning frequency

Fb = .159*((Av(1.84*10^8 )/(Vb(Lv+.823*Av^.5))^.5

the most effecient port will have the smallest perameter, and largest port area possible. This can not be achieved with a square, or rectangle port

Moral: Port area depedns on box volume, and a circle port is more effecient than a rectangle port, and aeros are tricky. Lol

So how much for you to build or re-do my box sampson????

I'd start from scratch. I charge double materials, (ex. $75 in materials= $150 total price. This includes materials like carpet and spray paint)

What are your plans at the moment?







I'm tied up for the next 2 weeks, I have a box for a blowthrough in an Elcamino to do and one for a hatch integra.. And I have to work around my work and school schedule

Ok so double for materials thats all? I like the box at the top with the port in the middle, But wouldnt you wanna put round ports in it?? As far as the build it will be after the holidays.

supadave wrote:

what so funny is the pic of the box tha tis 2 pics up i have been thinking of doing a design like that for like 2 years now. still may try it myself just have to get the tuning an port right

Ya we had a test n tune session last weekend and he was telling me about this box...I think it looks nice!

If i do a rebuild im going back to Trunk class for sure!

FUZ-T.C.C.-HK wrote:

supadave wrote:

what so funny is the pic of the box tha tis 2 pics up i have been thinking of doing a design like that for like 2 years now. still may try it myself just have to get the tuning an port right

Ya we had a test n tune session last weekend and he was telling me about this box...I think it looks nice!

it is a sick design i am just glad someone put it on paper. it has been in my head for awhile now just never said anything about it to anyone just amaze's me that someone else was thinkin like me lol.
funny thing about it is the first port wall will have to be kerfed to get the round outside edge of the sub. the tricky part would be tuning it with the second port wall. how would you get it to work out.
like the other design too with the 3 aero's in the box loading off a sid wall with the sub firing up. have had someone tell me aobut hat one once just never really tried it cause its some sort of bandpass i am thi nging.

supadave wrote:

FUZ-T.C.C.-HK wrote:

supadave wrote:

what so funny is the pic of the box tha tis 2 pics up i have been thinking of doing a design like that for like 2 years now. still may try it myself just have to get the tuning an port right

Ya we had a test n tune session last weekend and he was telling me about this box...I think it looks nice!

it is a sick design i am just glad someone put it on paper. it has been in my head for awhile now just never said anything about it to anyone just amaze's me that someone else was thinkin like me lol.
funny thing about it is the first port wall will have to be kerfed to get the round outside edge of the sub. the tricky part would be tuning it with the second port wall. how would you get it to work out.
like the other design too with the 3 aero's in the box loading off a sid wall with the sub firing up. have had someone tell me aobut hat one once just never really tried it cause its some sort of bandpass i am thi nging.

I dont know how you can tune a port like that,I guess it will be a single chamber inside I dont know???

Sampson,this is what i got 2 bb215d Planet audio subs I would like a box to hit mid 150's spl. But be tuned kinda in the middle for daily enjoyment....my box now is supposed to be tuned for 47 htz and i hit 148.1 with a 2000w clamped ...but the amp I have for now I hit 146.7 1000w amp,but currently no big 3 no batts,stock alt....stock everything. I am ordering a ap3000d amp ,2400rms 3000 peak. My amp now is 1000rms 1900 peak .Doing big 3 and adding a batt ,kinetic 2400. Do you think mid 150's is fieasable? With these additions?

But here is the kicker...its gotta look good!

The first box kinda looks like the Mike Stiers neon box

FUZ-T.C.C.-HK wrote:

Ok so double for materials thats all? I like the box at the top with the port in the middle, But wouldnt you wanna put round ports in it?? As far as the build it will be after the holidays.

Yes sir, I try to be reasonable. If you are even the slightest SPL oriented, I would do port on the side, or if you are wanting to compete in trunk class, I'd do subs up, port up and put the box in the rear of the trunk. I have other Ideas for a SPL setup, These boxes were designed to play music

FUZ-T.C.C.-HK wrote:

If i do a rebuild im going back to Trunk class for sure!

Has the trunk been modified to fit the current box?

supadave wrote:

it is a sick design i am just glad someone put it on paper. it has been in my head for awhile now just never said anything about it to anyone just amaze's me that someone else was thinkin like me lol.
funny thing about it is the first port wall will have to be kerfed to get the round outside edge of the sub. the tricky part would be tuning it with the second port wall. how would you get it to work out.
like the other design too with the 3 aero's in the box loading off a sid wall with the sub firing up. have had someone tell me aobut hat one once just never really tried it cause its some sort of bandpass i am thi nging.

Just need to find the port volume and keep it constant throughout the entire port. It can be a headache calculating it, but if it is done right, it will pay off in the end

FUZ-T.C.C.-HK wrote:

Sampson,this is what i got 2 bb215d Planet audio subs I would like a box to hit mid 150's spl. But be tuned kinda in the middle for daily enjoyment....my box now is supposed to be tuned for 47 htz and i hit 148.1 with a 2000w clamped ...but the amp I have for now I hit 146.7 1000w amp,but currently no big 3 no batts,stock alt....stock everything. I am ordering a ap3000d amp ,2400rms 3000 peak. My amp now is 1000rms 1900 peak .Doing big 3 and adding a batt ,kinetic 2400. Do you think mid 150's is fieasable? With these additions?

But here is the kicker...its gotta look good!

I believe it is possible. It won't be done in 1 try, or overnight. There are MANY factors that come into play when building a box with high output.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f-9pdaV_O4U

^^ This was done with $60 subs

ok cool!

Oh by the way,i wanna keep the same type of build....foward facing type.

FUZ-T.C.C.-HK wrote:

i got 2 bb215d Planet audio subs

Can you find more perameters on these subs? qts, fs, vas, sd, and driver displacment to be exact....

What are the rules on trunk class because if u can subs facing forward or back but the port firing up through the rear deck worked sick in the last install we just did

Mike's neon enclosure was much more complicated than the above drawings. I find it odd you posted the third box in the picture. I built several of those about 3-4 years ago. They are great for high output musical enclosures. You find the same design in about 60% of home theater subwoofer enclosures

dave there are prefab box's like that one in stores now lol hell not even half a mile from me

and dont wanna put round ports in a trunk but wanna be competitive lol some people will never ever get it

i think the round ports are noisyer and u cant play as much with them like a slot port

lol are you guessing or do you know this for fact?????????

also this is about spl numbers not sq

oh sorry im i know for me the round trying to get less noisy hasnt happend for a every day driver but i know u can get it from slot port as well i personly like slot better

slots are nice for driving around town pissing people off and getting tickets

in a trunk though i have had great success out of aero's, and not tubes from home depot cut up

im dailying 2 6inch aeros right now and theres no port noise.........

reason behind aeros is simply less turbulance than a slot port...and increases velocity

someone wanna get me some port number for this design need a new daily box

Sub Info please