16v help

Ok guys im having crazy issues with my electrical setup and im not sure what the hell is going on. I had a sundown 3000d and now i have a modded RF T4kw. I got rid of the sundown because it was going into protect at higher frequencies on 16v, 12v would do just fine. Bought the T4k to fix the issue and it worked well for 10 minutes or so but now its doing the exact same thing.

My electrical for the sub amp consists of a ohio gen 200a gm large case adjustable alt set at 17.9, 2/0 power wire running to 2 kinetik HC16v batteries in parallel in the back. Ground is iffy (just to a metal panel in the back) but both batteries and the 12v battery for the stock electrical utilize the same grounding point. I recently attached a temp run of 4g wire from the ohio gen case straight to the amp and nothing changed. HU is a kenwood ddx 812, im running RF rcas to a 360.2 in the back and rf rcas into the amp. Y splitter into the 360 and out from it (the kenwood has both left and right output for the sub... id think that might be an issue with the y splitter but the sundown didn't change when bypassing the 360)

I do eventually want to do a 1/0 ground from the front to the back but the 4g makes me think that might not be my issue (its a unibody cobalt if that makes a difference)

There is no way even with the alt that 2 HC16vs will support the T4K fully. Have you checked your voltage drop?

I just had issues this weekend where the amps I was using were cutting off burping at FREQ that I normally used, as I started moving around I found it would stay on at a lower freq, and was actually louder on the meter.

i honestly dont have the woofers to run the T4k fully. I had a T3k at one point and even that was too much for the subs.

i don't think voltage is an issue but ill meter it just in case. if anything im sorta thinking it might be spikes or something. right now it wont play on music loud enough to even think about a serious voltage drop

just tested it on the 12v post and it works just fine. even off 4g with a small circuit breaker inline

so you are grounding the 16vside of the kenetiks, and the 12v side of them as well to the frame is this correct???????

i agree with chilly as well that 2 hc16v will not support that amp

sanman wrote:

so you are grounding the 16vside of the kenetiks, and the 12v side of them as well to the frame is this correct???????

there is only one ground on each battery. The 12v posts are basically unused.How i have it ran is a jumper 2/0 from one batt to the second batt and a 2/0 run to a piece of sheet metal. all the electrical components in the car run off this single ground... 12v battery and the 2 kinteiks. everything else branches from the batteries off a ground dblock in the back.

sanman wrote:

i agree with chilly as well that 2 hc16v will not support that amp

I would agree with you but i really don't know. BUT i know this is going to sound stupid but my car is somewhat of an sq build. i have 2 15" RE XXX's sealed. if i have the line driver part of the 360.2 set how it should be i can get max excursion from the subs with the gain all the way down.

Also to get a good idea the amp goes into protect at pretty low levels. I would compare it to a single RE SR 10 sealed.

I also eliminated the subs first since i thought maybe i could have done something there but it did the same thing on a RE MT 18 wired to 2 ohms in a box sitting next to my car

amp is still drawing around 600amps of current cintiusely 2 hc16's are 3200 amps of amperage so if im correct in 3 seconds your drawing max amperage from the batts

right it can draw that much at full power but im not getting even close running it at 18v.... running at 18v it wont play music much less tones. and the volume level is somewhat comparable to a single sealed 10. running everything exactly the same except using the 12v post.... a run of 4g with a 150a circuit breaker inline it gets crazy loud.

low voltage isn't the issue of the amp going into protect

i'm starting to think maybe a bad cell in one or both batteries? would that do it?

SO YOUR STILL STICKING WITH 2 BATTS BEING ENOUGH

I SORTA HAD THE SAME ISSUE WITH MY CACTUS AMPS AT FIRST OVER 16.9 AND THEY WOULDNT PLAY 2 SECOND BEFORE THEY CLIPPED OUT, AND WELL I HOOKED THEM TO 14V AND WHAMM. I SENT THEM INTO ARC TO BE CHECKED OUT AND THEY TOLD ME THAT 16.9V WAS MAX FOR THEM, AND THEY THEN MODDED THEM FOR 18V OUT RIGHT AND I HAVE NO ISSUES ANYMORE.

I have watched the T3K and T4K play music all day long with the correct power behind them.

Lundy runs his T3K at .7 with 2 2400's but im sure the alt on his dually is pretty large to start.

Dustin (Nothingtooloud) has his T3K running on 2 2400's and an 1600 with a 250amp alt, it dosent even think about shuting of much less going below 12-13volts. It took close to 4 HC16v's to get it to not shut off with the alt adjusted up.

Dave (Lilblueboy) Sat and beat the hell out of a single 18 on a T4K running 5 hc16v's and no alt. It would sit and play for 3-5mins then he would need a charge.



What are you using to charge the HC16v's ? and what is your charge voltage going to them?

^^^ right they are awesome amps and pretty power hungry but i know its not an issue with low voltage or low amperage

I'm using an ohio gen 200a externally regulated set at 18.0 even. id like to set it at 18.8 like how i had it before but i wanted to make sure the amp was happy off 18v first and go up from there if it would handle it.

Th reason i know its not an issue with not enough power is because running it off the 16v post it goes into protect pretty much right away before the batteries even get a chance to drain or anything. Off the 12v post i can play it cranked as long as id like... and that's with that 150a breaker so. I really only demo it for 2 minutes or so thou and normal daily driving the volume is moderate but I'm pretty sure the batteries are charging when I'm driving not draining

If it was an issue that my electrical is to small for the amp it should do better at the higher voltage since it would need less amperage for the same wattage of power right?

More importantly if my old sundown saz-3000d did the same exact thing doesn't that point to something else? the protection on the sundown is pretty much non existent so it was "faster" persay and sorta threw me off but now it makes sense. Even after removing the protection circuit on the sundown it worked like a champ on the 18v (i had that one on 18. for like 2-3 days and then back to the same Dung Pile[/u]

I know this post is a little old, but have you tried removing the circuit breaker from the setup? I had an Orion 1200D with a circuit breaker inline at one point and it would shut off randomly. I found out the breaker was a thermal type and would cut power prematurely. Just an idea.

interesting...

Um no i haven't. the only reason for the circuit breaker is because my car is the work horse for the shop i work at, not only for demos but to test amplifiers as well. So my actual 16v amp wire is 2/0 no fuse. but since the amp isn't liking the 16v at the moment I'm using that lil tester 4g with the inline breaker. But i have noticed a bit of cutting out on the 12v side after playing it for a long time. So ill make me a run of 1/0 for the 12v post until i can get this all figured out.

Good looking out thou man ill take whatever help i can get. I need to call rf and get the scematics for the T4kw and see what i can do there. Ive just been sorta bummed about the whole ordeal

So called rf today interesting news... looks like my 16v days are over, anyone instested in 2 HC16V batts?